Lands of Paradise
We had no idea what to expect as we stood in the early-morning sun of Sorong, West Papua, on the island of New Guinea. After a week exploring Raja Ampat, we were now invited by the local government of Tambrauw to discover their pristine nature and its ecotourism potential. Papua, often seen as the frontier of palm oil and logging in Indonesia, is home to the world's third-largest rainforest and an astonishing range of biodiversity. Despite its ecological significance, ecotourism remains minimal due to its remote location and challenging infrastructure. With Charles and his experienced team guiding us, we felt ready to embark on this adventure.
The Journey Begins
We met Charles at our hotel, joining a group of explorers and naturalists eager to delve into the untouched forests—reminiscent of Jurassic Park. Early the next morning, we departed Sorong in three 4WD vehicles, quickly leaving the city behind and entering the pristine rainforest.
The drive to Tambrauw was not without its challenges. Occasionally, we encountered roadblocks manned by locals with machetes, requesting small tolls for road maintenance. Initially tense, we soon realized these encounters were harmless and even essential for keeping the roads passable. It was evident that we were on the frontier, witnessing new roads being constructed and, occasionally, massive trees being transported to Sorong.
After a full day's drive, we arrived in Sausapor, the regional capital of Tambrauw. The governor greeted us warmly, sharing his passion for transforming Tambrauw into a premier ecotourism destination while preserving its natural beauty. Cassowaries (Casuarius casuarius) roamed the gardens, and fruit bats (Pteropus spp.) called from the trees as we enjoyed a meal of local delicacies before boarding a boat to the remote islands of Meossu.
The next day, after a beachside coffee, we set off for the Turtle Festival—a potential highlight of the trip. We joined a flotilla of boats heading east, all bound for the leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea) breeding site. These ancient reptiles, some of the heaviest on earth, journey from as far as Alaska and California to nest here. As we arrived, the festive atmosphere was palpable, with villagers and visitors celebrating local biodiversity. After a ceremony, we released young turtles into the ocean, a symbolic gesture of conservation and community.
Late that night, we embarked on a moonlit hike along the Pacific coast to witness a leatherback turtle laying eggs. Approaching quietly, we watched in awe as the ancient creature, oblivious to our presence, continued her timeless ritual. It was a humbling experience, connecting us to a primordial past.
Into the Mountains
After a brief rest, we headed back to Sausapor and then drove towards the mountains and jungles around Fef. The journey, though only 50 km, took several hours due to challenging river crossings and dense forest. As we reached a mountain top, we spotted our first bird of paradise, a dazzling sight in the twilight.
The next morning, we ventured into the forest before dawn, waiting in the rain to observe the king bird of paradise (Cicinnurus regius). Though wet and uncomfortable, the experience sharpened our senses, revealing the forest's subtle wonders. In the afternoon, we swam in crystal-clear rivers and explored the diverse fauna, though our nighttime quest for a cuscus (Phalanger spp.) or tree kangaroo (Dendrolagus spp.) proved fruitless.
On our last day, we were rewarded with a spectacular display of greater birds of paradise (Paradisaea apoda) dancing in the canopy. As we left the forest, a pair of goliath cockatoos (Probosciger aterrimus) flew by, a fitting finale to our adventure. The untamed beauty of West Papua, coupled with the warm hospitality of its people, left an indelible mark on us.
Conclusion
Our journey through West Papua, guided by Charles and supported by the local community, showcased the region's incredible potential for ecotourism. By preserving its untouched nature and promoting sustainable practices, Papua can become a beacon of biodiversity and conservation. This adventure was a reminder of the wild wonders that still exist and the importance of protecting them for future generations.