
Rhino River
Almost like a fata morgana, as we paddle closer, the giant creature is nowhere to be found. For the next five minutes, I am simply quiet, hoping for the rhino to emerge once more, yet just overcome by emotions. As time passes, I work hard to forget everything I know about rhinoceroses, and by the end of this mental exercise…

Lands of Paradise
Late that night, we embarked on a moonlit hike along the Pacific coast to witness a leatherback turtle laying eggs. Approaching quietly, we watched in awe as the ancient creature, oblivious to our presence, continued her timeless ritual. It was a humbling experience, connecting us to a primordial past.

Paper Tigers
The remainder of the afternoon was spent trying to rent a motorcycle. Nobody was eager to rent one to me and even less so when I explained my plan of traveling north without a permit or a good idea of what I was looking for other than a tiger.

Golden Green
But then, just as we stop for a short break, much further away, hundreds of meters across the valley, there is a different hue of gold moving through an opening. It is big, and my mind races as I try to make out what it is, browsing through all the large animals that could explain what I am seeing.
Of Orange Doves
I was looking for the Fiji Orange Fruit Dove. An endemic bird that features the most striking contrast between bright orange and green colors. After a few hours of looking around the forest, I see an orange glimmer in the distance, but it is just a glimmer.